Enchantment Continues

Still on Djerba

Djerba is fringed with sandy beaches and covers an area of 308 square miles. Homer described it in his epic novel The Odyssey as “The Island of the Blissfully Happy.” Today, it is one of the Mediterranean’s most popular holiday destinations. Traditional Tunisian architecture, an azure coast, never-ending blue skies, (December and January do get some rain and clouds), fresh fish complementing local cuisine, all conspire to make Djerba a stunning place to visit. Many of the hotels have the characteristic Arabic/Turkish bath (hammam) as well as other spa features.

What Lies Beneath the Blue Skies?

Does the outward appearance of idyllic loveliness, charm, and tourist hospitality lead to a true understanding of Djerba or distract from it? It’s hard to penetrate below the surface here. It goes beyond the language barrier, although many speak only the Tunisian Arabic dialect or rudimentary French. It’s more likely to be a lack of trust in the public sphere. Political scientists have conducted surveys, measuring the amount of trust citizens have in their nation’s politicians and institutions. The Northern European and North American cultures surpass Latin countries in their levels of societal and political trust. Historically, Tunisia has seen waves of conquerors, who have come and gone–often wreaking vengeance along the way.

Religion. With the Tunisian government assuming a direct role in the supervision of religious activities, citizens are wary of departing from the official line in matters of religion. The Jewish community, while tiny, is the second largest religious community. Ibadis are thought to live on the isle of Djerba; and Sufism has deep roots in the country. Sufism’s tradition of mysticism infuses the practice of Islam throughout the country; and most homes have a shrine in honor of a marabout. No official data on Sufism is available. Knowledge about Ibadis is arduous to uncover. The few individuals I’ve asked here state that Ibadis presently practice alongside Sunni Hanafis and Malekis and that their children aren’t observant of the faith. Later, I learned that there are indeed Ibadis; but is true that some children are aligning themselves with one of the other Islamic judicial schools.

Upon independence, the Tunisian government assumed control of all Islamic institutions. The government administers and subsidizes mosques and pays the salaries of prayer leaders. The president selects the Grand Mufti of the Republic. The state also subsidizes the Jewish community. It allows the Jewish community freedom of worship and pays the salary of the Grand Rabbi, in addition to subsidizing restoration and maintenance costs for synagogues. Other minorities include Christians, Bahais, and others.

The Constitution provides for the free exercise of religions that do not upset the public order. The government, however, does not permit the establishment of political parties based on religion, forbids proselytizing, and restricts the wearing of hijab. As in most predominantly Muslim countries, the Constitution declares that Islam is the official state religion and specifies that the President must be a Muslim.

While democratic freedoms are publicly touted, the government does not uphold them in practice. Homogenization, conformity, and loyalty (solidarity) to the state come before human rights and individual expression. Economic growth and a rising standard of living are actively promoted and have wide support among the public.

The social contract thus appears to consist of citizen support for the government as the economy continues to grow under its direction. In exchange, the population remains silent regarding the state’s record of human rights, freedom of the press, and individual expression. An unanswered question is what type of citizenship education children receive in the public schools? While there is officially no illiteracy, levels of education vary dramatically. At first glance, finding one’s place in society and learning the material seems to outweigh critical thinking of developing a sense of curiosity about the world. Mandatory Islamic religious education in public schools also means that religion remains a dominant part of students’ worldview. The religious curriculum for secondary school students includes the history of Judaism and Christianity.

Women’s Place

The title of a 2000 film, La Saison des hommes (The Season of Men or The Homecoming), by Tunisian director Moufida Tlatli refers to the preparation for the season of men, the month, during which Djerbian husbands who have been working in Tunis return to the island. The past and the present, modernity and tradition co-exist in a post-colonial world, where, regardless of their equality before the law, domestic authority and traditional female roles limit women’s lives. In a traditional household in a changing modern-day world, options are perceived. As in The Silences of the Palace, Tlatli illustrates the spaces women create for themselves.

I have ordered the film and look forward to viewing it for its scenery of Djerba and insights into life on the island.

Life Goes On. An old man with kerchief and baggy pants is casting lines from the beach this morning. He has a chair and a woven basket for the fish, one pole, and lines wrapped around a cardboard pad. The lines are gradually unwound; the bait tossed into the water’s edge, and the tide carries it out to deeper waters. The fisherman’s silhouette against the island’s sea and sky on a beach rounded with hotels mimicking typical Tunisian architecture juxtaposes Djerba’s traditional and contemporary economies. The weather is too cool yet for sunbathing but welcoming. The length of Djerba’s beach can be enjoyed in solitude, the rings of swelling waves advancing toward the shore.

At the Swiss run hotel, advent pillars in straw wreathes appeared yesterday–the sign of a European tradition in a 98% Muslim country. The first candle was lit yesterday (12/3).