Abduction in the Casbah

The Casbah still brims with intrigue, mystery, and a touch of the violent encounter, even if the threat of bombs has subsided. After a short meeting at the U.S. Embassy, I thought I would make a visit to the much-talked-about Casbah. The taxi driver kept explaining to me the dangers of visiting the Casbah, especially as a woman alone. However, I had heard so much naysaying and been the target of so many guides offering their supposedly obligatory services, I wasn't sure how to take the concerns. It was broad daylight afterall. So, I entered the lower Casbah through steps from the port side. After several flights of stairs, walking along a street lined with small shops selling miscellaneous, newer wares, and taking some pictues, a man came up to me to warn me that I was being followed. Well, I had my shoulder handbag well protected, pulled forward over my chest and covered with my arm, and my camera attached to my wrist with a strap. Looking back every now an then and changing my route from one Casbah alley to another, I continued my exploration. As I began the incline up one narrow passageway, I held up my camera to position an image of children playing in a Casbah lane in the view finder. Just as I did so, a young man sprinted up and tore the camera from its strap and out of my hands, disappearing around the corner. Momentarily distraught, I explained my situation to two Islamic-appearing men (beards, long brown and white cotton gowns), one of whom explained the importance of entering the Casbah with a man, then showed me around, and and took me to the police station. An official there explained to me the dangers of the Casbah. Certain individuals in its warrens are just waiting for tourists, or other unsuspecting outsiders with expensive items, to appear and prey upon. He went on to explain that he was an official guide. In what I thought was a rather patronizing manner, but was probably for my own security (or at least his view of it), he offered to show me around some more, wanted me to make specific plans to come back, found me a taxi but also proceeded to arrange for the driver to take me to a camera shop and wait, and thereafter deliver me to my hotel. I was finally able to convince the driver to release me in the city center. I will no doubt have to buy a new camera. However, there isn't much choice here; and it means using more of my travelers' checks. Not much usage of credit cards here. Only a certain of major bank even changes travelers' checks; and euros are preferred. The Cultural Affairs Officier at the morning Embassy meeting had suggested that I not just fly to some southern cities and make my own hotel arrangements upon arriving. So, given today's incident, I'll have to decide how to not overreact, yet think seriously about the need to balance my desire to see more of Algeria with the necessity of caution in doing so. However, I will definitely go back to the Casbah. I want more time to meander up and down its steps, down its narrow passages, and imagine how the Algerians were able to hold out as long as they did in its folds and as portrayed in the Battle of Algiers. No pictures for awhile until I get a new camera and internet service with the software to upload them to blogger.com.

The guys in the picture are three who were on the desert bivouac in Tamransett: the guides, Slimane and Lili, and Pierre-a sort of French Lawrence of Arabia.