OK! What about Women?

Some women do dress like this. However, they are a minority; and the material is colorful not black. You can see women wearing the traditional jellaba as well as modern, western clothing-mostly on the more casual side. And there are a lot of tourists; so at least in the large cities, Moroccans are accustomed to what Americans and Europeans wear. In the Berber villages of the mountains, a woman without a head scarf is the equivalent of going topless. It's also considered indecent for men to wear shorts. But with so much trekking and no part of Morocco really undiscovered by outsiders, mountain Berbers no doubt have at least seen such dress a time or two. The vast majority of tourists are French. Not too many Americans these days. They don't know what they're missing.

Fès el-Bali

Today will be the last for awhile in exploring the Arab-Islamic, medieval city of Fès. That such a working city is being preserved is wonderful. The crafts found here are probably among the best in the world. And people actually living in the area, mixing some of the old and the new in their dress, makes it especially vital. No cars are allowed in the medina. So all transport is done by hand, push-cart, donkey, or people riding on horses. I bought a leather, gold-embossed book cover today. It's beautiful. This woman, set on some shopping, is in one of the larger squares of the medina, where copper and metal work is done. Great bronze and silver, throne-like platforms are rented to carry the bride and groom on the wedding day they appear together. The bride is brought on another decorative round platform and changes dress seven times on that day. Essentially, she is queen for a day. Earlier the bride- and groom-to-be each had experienced their own days with their respective female and male friends and family members. The library of the Kairaouine Mosque (built 857), where such celebrated scholars and teachers as Averroes, Maimonides, and Pope Sylvester II, studied and taught, was closed for two days. One day as I was leaving for an excursion, I say a woman and girl sitting with their belongings on the edge of the medina, apparently in the process of moving. While vehicles can be used outside the medina, perhaps in this case they were moving into the medina, since a man with a donkey appeared to help them move their possessions. After loading the saddlebags with various and sundry goods, a full-size refrigerator was eased on the donkey's back, balanced by the stuffed packs on each side. I continue to be astonished by the sheer physical labor done by men and women and animals in Morocco. Whether its men pushing carts through medina streets or up and down stairs with basic or no grades, women carrying agricultural produce, men bearing loads of lumber or heavy sacks of staples, everywhere individuals are involved in hard, manual work. Not to mention the donkey transporting a refrigerator to a family's new place of residence.

Chefchaouen

While I'm waiting for Moroccans to come back from their vacations, I visited a village in the the Rif Mountains. The name means "look to the peaks (especially two overlooking the town)" in Berber. Actually, the town has quite a large new part; but the older part seems rather like a takeoff on a village in the Greek isles. Certainly, quite an unusual setting to find in Morocco. The villagers sustain themselves through handicrafts. It seemed rather "touristy." However, I did see some of the rich agricultural land in this part of the country, called the breadbasket of the Romans. The land is dry this time of year; but when the rains start, the area greens and blossoms from January to April. Cereals are raised here, as well as oranges, olives, vegetables, etc. Some dams have been built to allow for irrigation. I saw a little mechanization-a few small-scale tractors, a Caterpillar grader by the side of the road, along with some other road-working equipment. Grazing and pasturing of sheep and goats is apparent; transportation by donkey; and some dairy cattle are visible. Given the heat this time of year, everyone knows where to find a spot of shade.

Meknès and Azrou

Am walking around the medina today with all its sights and sounds. I really have a great view of it from the terrace during breakfast at the restored 18th-century palace, where I'm staying (Dar El-Ghalia). Yesterday, I visited Meknès and the Azrou cedar forests. Since it's the slow season here, I was given a suite at a discount.The picture of me is in the royal granaries of Moulay Ismail (1672-1727) at Meknès, designed to store grain for the 12,000 horses in the royal stables-not just for a few days but over a 20-seige if necessary. The waterwheel, partially visible in the foreground, forced water through underground ducts and, along with the thick walls, maintained a stable temperature in the granaries. The royal stable's remains are behind the granaries; but the roofs were lost in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The granaries have such symmetry and grace that some have called them the cathedral of grain. Then I went to Azrou (Berber for rock) and saw the nearby cedar forests-and some of the Barbary apes that live there. Cedar has been prized for building in Morocco for centuries. Intricate cedar carving graces ceilings and wall trim in some of the older homes.

Fès

Here is a picture of me in front of the brass slot for alms to the Idrissid cult. If you put your hand on the plaque and make a wish, the saint should help bring it about. I took a tour of the medina today, which dates from the medieval period and is the most authentic in Morocco. Non-Muslims cannot enter mosques or zaouias (Sufi sanctuaries) but can look in from the periphery. The famous Kairaouine Mosque is closed for restoration. Constructed in 857 AD, it became the site of the West's oldest university. I saw a door, imprinted with the star of David, which is supposed to have to have been used by Maimonides. Also saw the famous tannery area as well as a public bakery, where children deliver dough from their homes to be baked in the wood-burning ovens.

Rural Women's Development

Returned to Ouarzazate to meet with Anissa Naqrachi, president and founder of the Association of Light and Solidarity with Rural Women's Development. Moroccan names are sometimes not pronounced as they appear in English. Ouarzazate, for example, is pronounced Warzazaat. I had fresh grape juice (green grapes)at Anissa's house for the first time. All the women in the organization (about 1400) volunteer their time to work with the poorest women in the south of Morocco. The work involves a variety of areas from health, the importance of literacy, nutrition to the environment, etc.I also met her husband, who directs the Office of Agricultural Development for the region, and visited a biodiversity project. This espace Internet is on the second floor (only about 4 1/2 feet high) of an old house overlooking a narrow street in the medina. From time to time through the open windows, I can hear anything from motor scooter to other traffic, loud music, merchants selling their products from the small shops, or children playing and arguing below. Now there's a procession passing by playing Arabic music with drums and other instruments and some singing. Maybe someone's getting married.

Tinmal Mosque

Drove through the High Atlas Mountains to visit the 12th century Tinmal Mosque. It's where a fundamentalist movement, founded by Ibn Toumart, began, which challenged the ruling powers and was a predecessor to the Almohads, who went on to conquer much of present-day Morocco and Spain. The mosque today is much in need of restoration or preservation. The original roof has collapsed.

Life in the Atlas Mountains and the Desert

Slept overnight under the stars in a Berber tent at Zagora (impressive dunes)and saw a wonderful ksar, Ait Benhaddou, where such films as The Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia were filmed. Saw some other kasbahs and ksars; but this was the most impressive. The wind blows hot during the day; but at night, it's nice. I could see so many stars, especially the Milky Way and Big Dipper. Today visited a Berber village market in Asizmiz, where you could buy a donkey for about 118 dollars (1000 dirhams). Many young people come to the Espace Internet and meet their friends through earphones and a device that lets them see each other. It's called Ucom and must have a small camera, connected through a USB port to the computer, in it.

Staying in Riad in the Old City

Tourists have found Marrakech, especially on the weekends-even in the month of August. So I'm staying in a traditional, restored Moroccan house (riad)in the old city. I was welcomed with mint tea in small, delicately decorated tea glasses and Moroccan pastries.The house is beautiful-courtyard with garden in center complete with a red bird cage. The rooms have typical Moroccan furnishings. Mine is on the ground floor; breakfast and meals are served on the roof. I'm headed over the mountains to the desert at Zagora tomorrow and will sleep overnight in a berber tent.

Going to Marrakech

Since Moroccans will not officially be back at work until September' I'm going to Marrakech-and hopefully the High Atlas-for a few days. I went to the Oudayas (Corsair's Castle)overlooking the mouth of the Oued Bou Regreg (river) as it flows into the Atlantic. The time to go is in the morning or early afternoon, before the crowds come. There's a perfect place to sit there in the outdoor café, overlooking the river, seeing the waves flow in from the Atlantic, feeling a wonderful cool breeze while sitting in the shade-eating fresh, Moroccan almond pastries. I have also visited the Hassan Tower and the Muhammad V Mausoleum, so am ready to move on for awhile. The picture to the left is the guard at the mausoleum. Muhammad V is revered as the king who led the country to independence, even going into exile rather than side with the French.

Getting Started in Morocco

All of my first blog entries were deleted, when I was only attempting to delete certain entries. So I'm trying again. I met with the Cultural Affairs Officer, Mitchell Cohn, at the Public Affairs Section of the American Embassy. I got some information and a couple of contacts. Basically, however the city is empty or on standstill, since its vacation time. The window of opportunity for accomplishing anything seems to be from September 10, when Moroccans will actually be back at work, and the beginning of Ramadan, which begins September 23. I learned that L'économiste is a good newspaper to read.