Land of the Lotus Eaters

Djerba

An island of villages, outside of the principal administrative town, Houmt Souk (Berber for market village), many visitors are swept away by the isle’s charms, much as those seduced by the Lotus-eaters in Homer’s Odyssey. On a stopover on the island, Ulysses’ fellow travelers ate of the honey-flavored blossoms, forgot all about their own country, and thought of nothing but remaining on the island and enjoying their state of bliss. While no lotus flowers are found in the area; the seductive power of the environment remains. Palm and olive trees, white mosques and koubas, Djerbian menzels (traditional homes), clean water, and powdery golden sand beaches continue to cast their spell in the present. The country is like a big oasis.

It’s raining today. Many of the buildings, even the tourist hotels, leak, built as they are for a mostly dry and warm climate. The winds and waves are fiercer but alluring in their unpredictability. The sea here in the lower part of the Gulf of Gabès is clear and can take on an aloe vera or olive green or be an overall bluish gray. The sun, the rain, and the clouds interrelate in bewitching behaviors.

La Ghriba

La Ghriba is one of the oldest and most famous synagogues of the Maghrib. A portion of the Jewish community has existed on Djerba since the first century, after Titus destroyed Jerusalem. Welcomed by the island’s Berbers, Jews adopted some of their customs, even several bordering on the superstitious. It is now greatly reduced, since the creation of the state of Israel. Today, the Djerbian Jewish community has about 650 members, almost all of them living in Er Rhiad. Security is extremely tight around the synagogue, as one might expect after the bombing several years ago. The exterior is simple, a rectangular building with blue trim in the Tunisian style. Visitors have to cover their heads and remove their shoes to enter. Rabbis are present in a corner, spending the day chanting and reciting the psalmody. In a profound spiritual ambiance, I treasured the decorative tiles and light filtering through colored windows. The synagogue houses one of the oldest Torahs in the world. The original Jewish community of Djerba brought it, when they came in 586 BC, after Nebuchadnezzar destroyed Jerusalem and deported the population. Some returned when Cyrus, king of the Persians, allowed Jews to go back to the holy city in 539. Many remained; while retaining their religion and their tribes, they became Arab in the sense of adopting Arab names as well as the language. They never, however, converted to Islam. The two communities have an understanding. They go to the same schools, may work together; but they never intermarry and children attend their respective community’s religious schools in the evening. For Jews and Muslims alike, it is important to read their sacred literature.

Guellala

Guellala, located on the southern coast of the islet on the Gulf of Bou Grara, is known for pottery production, the beneficiary of the clay in its soil. As many traditional crafts, pottery making has suffered in quality due to its orientation toward the tourist trade. The flamingos and herons visible along the shoreline are a highlight of the trip. Next, the simple white mosque, constructed of earth, lime, and stone joins others as a symbol of Djerbian style and serenity. The Museum of Djerbian Heritage is one of the best I have seen. All white with beautiful gardens, displays trace scenes from daily life on Djerba. All the stages of marriage are presented, from the preparation of the bride to the following ceremonies. I also saw a camel drawing an olive oil press, a Sufi ceremony, circumcision rites, and a small marabout shrine. Music accompanies the visit.

Mahboubine

Supposedly the Fadhloum Mosque is the oldest on Djerba. Originally Ibadite, it was taken over by Malekites. It is difficult to know how many Ibadis there presently are. They have become secretive due to past persecutions; and outwardly blend in with the Maleki Sunni community. Some evidence suggests that it dates from the 14th century. It housed a Qur’anic school, complete with bakery and mill. This structure has small domes in the manner of Djerbian menzels. I returned to the hotel through the countryside, driving in the midst of orchards and olive trees, one of which is supposed to be 800 years old.

I learned that women working in the hotel business here are from the mainland, not from Djerba.

May the Force be with You

Houmt Souk

Along the way to Houmt Souk, I was astonished at the birds visible along the shoreline: flamingos, herons, gulls, and others. The covered market area had numerous shops selling many of the same products–a lot of hastily decorated, hand-painted pottery. The central market, however, was more authentic. There, in stalls in a warehouse-type structure, vendors were selling fresh vegetables: stacks of vividly orange carrots, apples, greens, spices, dates, and other foodstuffs. A basketball-size, reddish-yellow squash half stood up right, with tiny insects swarming over it. Another building sold meat products. Chunks of beef (hooves too) for steaks, roast, or flanks for stew lay out in the open on wood counters. The cows head displayed whole on the wall beside one stand advertised its fare. The fish auction was fascinating. An auctioneer in a red felt hat, standing behind a booth filled fresh with the days catch, holds up a string of fish. Men in front place their bids; and the fishes go to the highest bidder.

Many of the over-30 generation dress in traditional clothing. Women wear off-white jellabahs or material trimmed with red, green, and gold embroidered trim. I did see one woman covered in multi-colored polka dotted material. Maybe the fabric was on sale. Obviously, she wasn’t going to see someone else wearing her dress in public. Men wear gray jellabahs or slacks and shirt with the round gray or red felt hat. A common winter costume is the brown burnoose with hood, trimmed with black embroidery. Conservative western dress is also common for men.

The pace of life seems slower here. Tourists mingle through the bazaars, many fewer than during the high summer season; but don’t seem to attract undue attention. The high temperatures of summer are past. An occasional cloudy day makes for comfortable strolling. Merchants with tourist wares to sell live up to their usual reputation. Taxi drivers and travel agencies may try to make an extra dinar or two. Yet, the city’s structures aren’t over two to three stories, built in pseudo-Djerbian mode; and the city itself is small. Traffic is manageable. People will take time to answer a question; a characteristic mostly lost in the commotion of Tunis. I feel space, so far only that achieved from looking at bogs of marshy shoreline (visited by creatures of the feathery kind), out to the Gulf of Gabes with nothing but waves on the horizon, or at semi-arid land extending from the densely built up hotel district to Houmt Souk. The top of the 15th century Arab fort provides a valued view of the white city and the small fishing boats in the bay. I sense a more human scale. Although I suppose you could develop island fever, if you stayed here long enough.

The Mediterranean is remarkable this time of year. One day it can be placating and soothing, with waves regularly rolling in under a clear sky. Another day can start out serenely; but then a squall blows in. Clouds appear; the wind picks up blowing the curtains through the windows and threatening to overturn outdoor umbrellas on the beach and sundecks. The waves approach with greater force, speed, and higher crests. I love it. It’s not threatening only energizing. Nature seems stirred with a sense of power and creativity, as if it wants to attract your attention. The sky grows varied with ever changing rain clouds (a photographer’s delight), the water forms new colors–cobalt blue farther out, patches of it in other places, cerulean blue closer in. All continually in movement. The rain that comes in big drops refreshes but doesn’t last long.

Matmata

Onto the ferry again, to cross over from Djerba to the continent to visit Matmata. In the fishing port of Ajim, I saw a live fish auction and the amphorae used to entrap squid. Lines strung through the pots lower them into the sea. Squid, prizing their protective value, make them their nighttime dwellings. Fishermen then raise the pots in the early morning hours before the squid awaken; and make a good harvest during the months of December and January. Matmata is the best-known troglodyte village in Tunisia. Berbers used these dwellings carved into the sides of an earthen basin for their isothermal qualities. They maintain a relatively constant temperature all year round. Their underground location in a landscape of uneven barren hills gives the terrain a science fiction aspect. These aspects were so appealing that several of the Star Wars movies were filmed here. The village was constructed in the ground and at one time probably moved in harmony with the rhythm of the sun and nature itself. With one furnished room, the area is more of a place to visit than one of present-day habitation. The fascinating part is the entry through a tunnel extended from an exterior cave into the crater-like central cavity itself. A Berber woman gives a demonstration of meal grinding.

Douz

Called the door to the Sahel, Douz today is an entirely new city, which supports itself through date harvesting from the nearby Palmeries and the tourist trade. The old city is covered by sand. Modern-day Tuaergs dress in black and white striped jellabahs (robes), with brightly colored (orange, blue, or red) headscarves to identify their group, rather than the customary indigo blue, and then have their choice of visiting the dunes on camel or in horse-drawn cart. I was tempted to wax cynical; but then realized that Tunisia has few options in terms of economic development, especially in the southern portion of the country. Tunisia has few natural resources and no oil, unlike neighboring Algeria. It has date palms, olive trees, and a prospective free-exchange zone on the horizon. Most of the country’s infrastructure benefits the northern coastal area. The South remains divided between poverty and abundance, depending on the presence or absence of the tourist industry. Tourism remains overall the foremost Tunisian business; it empowers the rest of the economy. With Tunisia less dependent on American tourists than Morocco, the events of September 11, 2001, registered little impact on tourism.

Medenine

Here I saw one of the ksours (fortified villages) the region is known for. Constructed by Berbers of dried mud and brick, a ksar consists of several stories and chambers with arched entrances. The cells (ghorfas) preserved grain even for years, due to the low humidity of the region. Such constructions unfortunately, deteriorate quickly under the influence of wind and the rare but torrential rains which impact the area. The roadside ksar I saw has served as a hotel –0 star to be sure. However, the price is low, washing facilities are available on the first floor. If one wishes to entertain a Berber lifestyle à la imagination, a stay in an ancient ksar, later turned fortification, could be a beginning.

Return to Djerba

I returned to the island on the bridge, which follows a Roman road between the mainland and the current village of El Kantara. Now, Djerba gets its water from the continent; and water pipelines follow the roadway above ground. Humility and a sense of paradox are what I felt as I called an end to the day. Crossing a passageway used for thousands of years to I returned to the tourist zone with its stretch of innovative, as well as homogeneous hotels, replete all the most up-to-date amenities–where a sense of the past is found in only an occasional decorative façade on a newly built panel.

Adventures in Time

Rule No. #1: Don’t Buy Train Tickets in Advance

Preparing for my trip to Djerba, I bought a train ticket the day before, hoping to avoid a last minute rush. So, I learned a rule of travel in Tunisia: Don’t buy your train tickets in advance. Why? You might not make it to the station on time. I didn’t realize that, even in tourist areas, taxis are not available in early morning hours; and the hotel won’t have any backup provisions to find you one. So I missed the train to Gabès. An energetic taxi driver (one did show up; but we arrived one minute before the train left), who rush up to the train at the last moment, trying to arrange my last-minute boarding, but to no avail, took me back to the hotel. Then, he watched the louage station (a van leaves for its destination, when it fills). Finally, he found a first-class bus, which would go directly to Djerba. I was to wait ten minutes in a local barber shop, quite modern, with a whole stand devoted to about 20 bottles of different kinds of eau de toilette, new chairs with red plastic seats, fancy clocks on the counter in front of each client’s chair, towels clothes-pinned to a clothesline stand outside. I watched Al-Jazeera in English, which the barber said had been in operation for only 15 days. I continued to wait; and the bus arrived after about 45 minutes. The ride was comfortable, not overcrowded. As the air became stuffy and warmer, women remained fully clad in their long cloaks and headscarves or wrap-around cloth. The vehicle detoured to Kairouan but seemed to be making good progress. One stop was to but the local delicacy, makroud–little pastries filled usually with dates but also available with peanuts and almonds. At around 1:30 PM, we stopped at a roadside cafeteria for lunch.

Rule No. #2: Be Patient and Flexible

Underway again, the bus made an announced stop (most stops were unannounced) just outside Gabès, in front of tourist stands selling the local pottery, small stuffed camels, dates, and basketry. The driver started a series of calls on his cell phone. During the wait, Tunisian couples bought decorated drums and stuffed camels for their children. It turns out the deluxe bus had developed a problem; and we had to transfer to another one. This one was not so first-rate. Children jumped up and down on their parents’ laps; more seats were filled. However, we were on our way. It wasn’t long before we approached the ferry making the transit, across the strait, from the mainland to the isle of Djerba. The sun had set; and we made the crossing in the dark. It was fun–crescent moon above, stars showing in the clear sky, waves clapping up against the boat, as we crossed the wake of another vessel. Once across, the passengers quickly boarded; and we set out again. I finally got off at one of the stops, found a taxi (not too far from the bus stop) and arrived at my hotel.

I’m on my third pair of sunglasses.* First set of clips lost, second (bought in Marrakech) broken. Now, I have large-lense sunglasses, which wrap around my eyes and fit over the ones I have. My camera was stolen in the casbah in Algiers. I have adapted to another one of much more dubious quality. On the bus to Djerba, the bow to my glasses broke. I have an older, backup pair, so can continue to function. I just won’t as easily be able to “play the coquette.” Consequently, what is the lesson to be learned from all this? If you start the day with predetermined plans while traveling, decide how much energy you want to devote to clinging to your affixed schedule and how matters “should” be. Adapting to what happens and what is may be better for your health, psychological and otherwise.

Rule #3: Enjoy or Learn from What’s There

It’s two days past Thanksgiving. Other Americans are present here and there during this off-season in the tourist trade. Nonetheless, finding a replica of the traditional American Thanksgiving feast complete with roasted turkey was not probable. Any why try, when I can enjoy couscous, chorbas (soups with vermicelli, vegetables, and meat-often lamb or fish), mechoui (grilled meat), salads of carrots, radishes, peppers, tuna, onions, olives, and nokhai (small meatballs in tomato sauce with a few greens). The newest hotels have been constructed for the mass tourism market; and often don’t display much of the resident culture. Take where I’m staying. It’s on the beach; the service is high quality. For the most part, its main rooms are elegant in modern style but also sober and impersonal. In the Medusa Lounge Bar, offering evening global (translate bland) electronic keyboard music, Europeans in post-modernist, evening dress sit by each other Eric Hopper style. Tunisian costumes and metallic work adorn the entries of the spa and one restaurant. Only the Sidi Bou Said (Moorish) Café is intimate and captivating–a place where I could get a mint tea or Turkish coffee, relaxing on low cushioned banquettes. Water pipes are available for those interested. A large (4 ft.) white, wicker oriental birdcage with two parakeets stands near the entrance.

Opportunity to Learn

However, Djerba can be a case study in environmental tourism. How is the country’s necessary adoption of mass tourism, which brings jobs and income to the population, impacting on the people and culture of Tunisia? How is it affecting the island of Djerba? How much does the need for openness in attracting visitors conflict with the indigenous culture? Mass tourism usually leads to the creation of large hotel complexes (limited to a certain height here) and monotonous urban sprawl in the surrounding communities, which profit from the industry. At first impression, the large standardized (even Las Vegas style or Disneyland variety activities) appear concentrated on the northeastern coast of the island. Better hotels commit themselves to preserving the waterfront and deduct a small amount on checkout to donate to a charitable cause. Yet, is this enough? Or will the arrival of tourists en masse be such an assault on the environment and culture that it destroys the reasons travelers wanted to come here in the first place?

Forget your Cares

This is the way the world is, so why worry about it. For many, Tunisia’s shores, deserts, and underground cave dwellings (where Star Wars was filmed) are a chance to escape, to experience a sense of adventure (even if largely fictitious). Forget the cares of the world, peruse the markets selling cheap wares, get a massage, take a sauna, the world has muddled through this far; let it continue to do so. Lapse into denial for the moment, to reawaken later, after the trip, to think about taking one small step toward improving the human condition. If you think this is facetious, you can take a more conscious approach.
Accept the world as an imperfect place; but remain hopeful (an attitude which differs from optimistic, which considers progress inevitable) about the future.

*I'm now on a fourth set of sunglasses. The bow on my last pair dropped off on the way into the covered suqs (shops) at Houmt Souk, principal city on the island of Djerba. So, I have a new pair, which cost 9 Tunisian dinars ($7.00) and are allegedly made by Prada.

Puppet (Ancient Hammamet)

Puppet was a city important in the time of Marcus Aurelius and Commodius. It was renowned in those times for its regular and thermal baths (hence the name “hammam,” which means bath in Arabic). An affluent village with many opulent homes, it never became a large city. In the 900s a fort was constructed for the defense of the Tunisian coasts. In the 12th century, Roger II of Sicily conquered the city, took possession of the fort, and built the town walls. In the 16th century, the Turks took control, followed by beys, and French colonization. In the meantime, Puppet became Hammamet, the city of baths.

In the 12th century under the Hafsids, Hammamet gained some prominence. When the Spanish invaded in 1570 AD, they fortified the fort and city walls. The Muradites ruled in the 17th century.

The ruins date primarily from Roman times with some Byzantine mosaics. One of the most well known portions has been removed to the Bardo museum. The Getty Museum is involved in protecting some of the rest. Puppet was a stop on the Roman road, which linked Carthage to present-day Sousse.

Sebastian Villa

A villa built by Romanian, millionaire, George Sebastian, is now a cultural center just outside Hammamet. The weather is cooler with some rain; red blooms are closed and hanging their heads in response to the change in temperature. Pink hisbicus still have their colorful visages open to the world as soon as the sun rises. Built on 35 acres (14 hectares) of Mediterranean shoreline, the Dar Sebastian is impressive and interesting. Frank Lloyd Wright said it was the most beautiful house he had ever seen. Many other influential and celebrity figures have visited the area (Paul Klee, Andre Gide). Winston Churchill wrote some of his memoirs there. E. Rommel made it his headquarters in 1943. After the war, Sebastian turned it over to the Tunisian government, which built an outdoor theater on the premises in 1964. Spacious gardens (orange trees, hibiscus, eucalyptus trees, prickly pear cacti, agave, with other indigenous and exotic trees) and accompanying villas set off the grounds.

Architect

What most interested me was a placard indicating the tomb of a person named Woodruff. It wasn’t easy to find his grave; but a worker in the gardens showed me around. I learned that Woodruff was the American architect who designed Sebastian’s sumptuous palace. His grave is behind the Café de la Lune, a terrace attached to the burial place of a marabout, (small white square building with a dome [kouba]), which overlooks the Gulf of Hammamet. Marabout mausoleums are common throughout Tunisia. This kouba was constructed by Sebastian; and Woodruff may have lived there. Sebastian and Woodruff used to drink tea and visit on the patio. Woodruff’s grave, a short distance behind the café, is unremarkable, a rectangle of bricks overgrown with grass. He spent his last days at Sebastian’s villa and died in Tunisia. An architect,* whose work was admired by the likes of Frank Lloyd Wright, became so charmed by his new environment that he spent his last days in a house of his own design in Tunisia. Yet, his work, I suspect, is not well known in the United States. He chose to be buried in an almost unmarked grave in a faraway land. Perhaps, this befits a person who had the imagination and creativity to dream of, plan, and implement a project such as Dar Sebastian and leaves us with a pervading sense of mystery.

I was outside this evening so I heard the evening call to prayer. It's more melodius here, a soothing close to a winter's day. The pre-sunrise sky this morning was "awesome"-rose showing through blue-gray clouds over a true aquamarine sea below the horizon.

*If this information, provided by the gardener, is true. A sign in the center gives only his last name (Woodrof). I couldn't find anything about him on the Internet.

Winemaking at Bou Argoub

Since viticulture has such a long history in the Cap Bon region, I visited the nearby fabrique (factory) near the small city of Bou Argoub. I arrived as a group of students from the Higher Institute for Technological Studies of Nabeul were beginning a tour, so I got to join them. The students, nine women and four men, are planning to go into tourist industry. Two male students and two female walked or stood arm in arm at times. This is a simple act of friendship in Tunisia. In Tunisia, over half of the university students are women.

Agriculture plays a predominant role in the Tunisian economy; and the country has a long tradition of viticulture. In an agronomical essay, a Punic leader, Magon, celebrated the wines of Numidia. In Roman times, festivals in tribute to Dionysus took place. Symbols related to the pleasures of the vine appear in mosaics in Utica and Bulla Regia. Tunisia continues its history of wine production, building on the days when amphoras, wedged in the bottom of boats, traversed the Mediterranean.

On the way to the location, I asked Farid, the taxi driver, if he had any children. At first, he tried to ignore the question. Upon further questioning, he said that he didn’t have any, he had four girls. As we drove, he pointed out that some houses remain unfinished on the outside, so the proprietors don’t have to pay as much in taxes. Farid thought that at least 45 percent of Tunisians drink wine, although Islam forbids its consumption. He also said he would never go to Algeria, even if someone paid him to. He had a video screen, attachable to his dashboard, and a collection of CDs. About 5' 4", I think he tried to cut a bit of a dashing figure with his red shirt and beige scarf tossed over his shoulder.

Tunisia isn’t in competition with Napa Valley, or Australia or Chile; but it does make some good wines with what resources it has and even exports them to European countries.

Le Cap Bon

Agricultural Production

In northeast Tunisia, Le Cap Bon, literally the Good Cape, has been valuable to Tunisia. Privileged with a moderate Mediterranean climate, it is a fertile agricultural area, known for citrus fruit, cultivation, particularly oranges and lemons, as well as truck farming. The isthmus is also the center of Tunisian grape growing and produces some of the best Tunisian wines, such as the Bou Argoub red (a blend of caregnane and syrah varieties) or Kelibia Muscat. Viticulture dates to antiquity and developed under the influence of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans–and more recently les Français (the French). Arrays of olive trees over gently sloping, well-tilled hills complete my image of the perfect Mediterranean landscape. Until recently, agriculture was the sole mainstay of the area

Nature is the Spectacle

On Cap Bon, nature is the major attraction. My spirit expanded as I looked at a rural landscape of plowed fields, farms, undulating hills, and eventually a more rugged and craggy coast. Passing El Haouria at the northernmost point and following the shoreline on the Korbous side of the Cape, the seaboard becomes even rougher and the countryside greener with patches of forest. Poverty, or at least a lower standard of living, is apparent throughout the area. Although there are small tractors, donkeys and horses are often used in daily labor. Sheep and cows graze in open fields. People are seen carrying loads of firewood. Women, especially, dress in more traditional clothing. Some litter and disrepair appear at the fringes of cities and cultivated fields. Here I could get a taste of how Tunisians really live away from the mammoth complexes raised for purposes of the tourist trade.

History

The peninsula has been the theater of many invasions from Caesar to Rommel. It’s amazing to think of all the leaders and civilizations that have extended their reach into North Africa. The only ones with the most lasting influence seem to have been the Arabs and then the Turks. Morocco, however, was never part of the Ottoman Empire. Approaching the Cape, most passed by the city of Suleiman, the port of entry from Tunis. The city itself, though, was founded “only” in 1600 AD. I started out from the other side, leaving from Hammamet, and stopped first at the enormous and impressive hilltop fortress at Kelibia. The nearby town and defensive structure has existed here since Phoenician times. The Byzantines built the current citadel in the 6th century, which the Spanish badly damaged and rebuilt in the 16th century. Constructed on a colossal cliff (254 feet), it protected the port and the strait of Sicily. Nowadays, the walk around the top of the ramparts offers a superb view seaward and over the white, blue-trimmed city below.

At Kerkouane, I saw Punic ruins from the 6th century BC. Unlike other such ruins, the Romans, who abandoned the site after its destruction in the second century BC, have not altered these. The city lived principally from the production of purple dye. The ruins, not so spectacular in themselves, demonstrate the existence of homes comfortable for the times, with bathtubs, washbasins, and drainage. Here the waterfront is rocky. A wide, cement barrier, bordered by feathery bushes and the sea provided a wonderful walkway back from the location. Mosaics in the museum depict Tanit, a goddess of fertility, and protector of the city.

El Haouaria is the city on the Cape closest to Europe. A rocky coastline, cliffs along the shore, white-capped waves, chalk quarries from which the Phoenicians built the first Carthage, an offshore island vista, all provide a refreshing break from the hectic cities of modern life and the super-sized, standardized tourist areas along Tunisia’s southern coast.
The town has an annual falcon festival. Grottos, which contain ancient quarries, were closed. A compression plant, on the line that transports natural gas from Algeria to Italy, lies, on the coast just outside El Haouaria.

Korbous is known for its thermal waters; and they are hot to the touch (at least 77˚F) as they pour out from holes in the rocky coastline. On the tree-covered, stony, steep cliffs, families are picnicking as you approach the area. The spring waters I went to were alleged to be therapeutic for rheumatism. As I approached the wooden stairway leading to the steamy basins, not to mention the sea, below, young men were displaying their catches of squid, starfish, and other piscatorial specimens. Below, women and children soaked their feet and legs in round stone caldrons, while the men bathed in the sauna-like spray over the sea below.

Yasmine-Hammamet, an entirely new city south of Hammamet itself, was a disappointment to me. Touted as a city for the 21st century, it seemed like a huge mall of hotels with the boutiques, fast food places, small restaurants, casinos, spas, discotheques, Carthago (a theme park), and golf courses to support them. Certainly, there are some fabulous five-star hotels with all the usual comforts. Additionally, there are new villas, apartment buildings, and time-share bungalows. Here an empire of tourism and money reigns. A bit of Disneyland, along with a spanking clean, new environment and beaches at your feet or just across the corniche. I found it too unreal, too detached from reality. No intimate spaces connected to culture and history or enough green spaces and connection to nature. The future will probably prove that it’s mass tourism at its best.

Tunisia is working hard to meet the challenges of a global economy and meet the challenges presented by the West and lately the rising economies of the East. Of the Maghreb countries, Tunisia is at the forefront in this effort. Yet, looking at the long span of North African history, I wonder how deeply these new ideas are penetrating, whether they are entering the mentality of people, outside of a small urban elite. Charles-André Julien states that, in spite of the fact that North Africans have continually mixed external influences with their own customs and business, the Maghreb has always remained fiercely itself. It submits to the physical domination of outsiders, without internalizing their moral or philosophical imprint. Unification has usually been accomplished under strong leadership. Never, except under the Sanhaja, has the area been free to pursue and develop an autonomous civilization. It is interesting to see how these trends are at play today.

The Only American

Since I’ve left Tunis, I’ve not seen any other Americans. I do hear English spoken occasionally, however, because tourists from the United Kingdom visit the resort areas. In general, most tourists are from France and Germany. Tunisians are delighted to meet an American and express the desire to learn English. They like to hear “American English,” probably due to the U.S. role in the world. Many Tunisians ask why more Americans don’t visit their country.

Personally, being the lone American means I get to speak French and Arabic and intermingle with the local population more. It gives me an added sense of adventure, of charting a unique course, exploring unfamiliar waters. With almost nowhere on the planet truly unknown, this is in large part a myth. Still it makes my sabbatical more exciting. In an Internet search, I found pictures from all throughout the country and a travelogue in English. It turns out the couple was from Canada and both spoke French. Consequently, I am involved in an out-of-the-ordinary journey for the average American.

An interesting fact is that I’m seldom asked if I am alone here, unless it is a question of how many people to seat. I’ve come to think that how many times I’m asked this may be an indication of the safety and openness of a country. Tunisia is a very safe country and well accustomed to playing host to European tourists. Outside of hotels, modesty in dress for men and women would be advised. In the high tourist areas, I have seen couples strolling hand in hand. Physical contact in public between members of the opposite sex is not considered proper in most of Tunisia.


Nabeul

Nabeul is the regional seat of government for Cape Bon and less touristy than Hammamet, whose sole reason for being seems related to the trade. The Friday Market in Nabeul, nonetheless, has become part of the sightseeing circuit. The city claims to be Tunisia’s capital of pottery. Most crafts practiced in Tunisia seem to be produced quickly for the tourist trade. As a middle-income country, the educational and skill level of the populace has most likely outpaced extensive investment in traditional skills.

More Tunisians in traditional dress are visible in Nabeul. Many women are wearing the jellabah or wrapped in a large piece of white material that is drawn around the waist, then across the shoulders, and over the head. Older men may wear a brown wool jebba (long gown with large sleeves) trimmed in black embroidery with hood now that it’s cooler. A lot of people, especially the young, wear modern Western wear, take-offs on famous fashion lines, sunglasses, and stylish handbags. Women who were doing serious shopping came from markets near or in the medina, to some extent more authentic, the merchants less insistent.

National Union of Tunisian Women: Regional Branch

The reason I went to Nabeul was to visit the regional branch of the Union National de la Femme Tunisienne, which is located there. It’s located on Habib Bourguiba Avenue, across from the post office and next to a mosque. The president is Yosra Ayed, also an inspector of lycées. The office is in the same building as one of 11 kindergartens (jardins d’enfants), which the Nabeul branch of the UNFT oversees. The facilities were simple but clean and bright, seemed well run, with the children happy and secure. UNFT is also involved in many other areas, such as professional alliances, illiteracy classes, training centers, and legal assistance. An administrative assistant was proud to point out that Tunisia is the only Arab country, which makes polygamy illegal.

By the Sea

A beautiful day at Hammamet. After a couple of cooler days with a bit of rain and wind, today the sky is cerulean blue with scarcely a cloud. I visited the city of Hammamet, walked the medina, inside the reconstructed city walls, and explored the shops (suqs) selling largely similar items for tourists. I told the sellers (in French) that I was from Russia, and so couldn’t understand them. That seemed to startle them and keep them at bay. I did buy a gray Tunisian burnoose to add a bit of drama to chilly days. As I left, departing through the main city gate, I was startled to see a short column of cars with a procession of men in front. They were carrying a corpse, wrapped in green satin cloth decorated in gold with verses from the Qur'an, into the medina. I later learned that the cloth is green when a woman has died and white when it's a man. The pall bearers were probably taking the body to a mosque or home for a service before burial. There is a cemetery just outside the old city walls. No women were in attendance. The practice of when and how women partipate differs according to custom and region. Then I headed for the famous Sidi Bouhdid Café seen on most travel posters promoting Hammamet. It’s the trendiest and most popular café with tourists and celebrities, situated directly between the city wall of the medina and the shoreline of the Gulf of Hammamet. Fortunately, only a few travelers visit this time of year.

Doctors warn of the damage sunshine can do to the skin. But on a day like today, not too hot, pleasurably warm, sitting on a French café-style chair at a small, round table (fittingly with seashell decoration), enough at the edge of the thatched roof to catch the rays of the sun, the mood only lends itself to relaxation and reverie. The first hint of sun on my face yielded to a yearning for more. Once I sat down, my face couldn’t seem to absorb enough of the gently penetrating rays. It wasn’t long before I took off my shoes, stretched out my legs, and began to take advantage of the right to stay as long as you want in a French café, once having ordered. The cappuccinos were large, not like the smaller expresso-type versions à la white foam served in small glasses throughout much of North Africa. I also had a crêpe au fromage. What makes this place so interesting is the café (decorated with Oriental carpets, cushions, and Tunisian artifacts inside, chicha available), the city wall, which proves the backdrop, and the attraction of the view across the sea. No buildings can be taller than a cypress in Hammamet, so no monstrous structures mar the skyline. Greenery helps mask those that exist.

The seafront here is rocky. The water of the inlet immediately attracted my attention. I noticed it as soon as I walked out beyond the medina rampart to the front of the café. It’s not merely one color but dazzling aquamarine with shifting patches of royal blue. The currents in their unwavering courses add movement and serenity to the pattern. Here I could indulge a romantic, idyllic view of the world: a castle-like background, rocks and waves at my feet, a curve of the coast providing a dreamy, distant mountain setting against a lucent azure sky. Sitting in a café with a cappuccino, thinking I could be a Paul Klee, a Frank Lloyd Wright, or other famous person. After all, what happens if one stop’s dreaming?

The photo is from an Ottoman era villa in the medina in Tunis.

History and Tourist Traps

Kairouan

Kairouan is inland on an arid Tunisian plain. However, it’s significance is twofold: 1) It signifies the planting of Islam in Tunisia, then part of Ifriqiyya. The Muslim Arab commander, Uqba Ibn Nafi, chose the location for his capital in 670 AD and constructed the Great Mosque. It has 400 columns, garnered from nearby Roman ruins. The rounded, vertical filaments marking the dome of the minaret, added by the Aghlabids, is a stylistic innovation, symbol of the creativity and productivity under the dynasty. Thus, Kairouan is considered the fourth most important Islamic city after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. Little tourism is visible in the city itself as Kairouan remains true to its spiritual calling. Thus, I saw some traditional craftsmen at work. However, examples of their wares, as well as the city’s fame for carpet making, seem in decline. I did see shops selling camel meat, with legs and other parts suspended in front. The most astonishing were those in which a Holstein cow’s head looks out from the middle of a frame out-front a sort of customary logo). I also saw the Mausoleum (or zawiya) of Sidi Sahab el Balaoui, the Barber. He was a companion of the Prophet Muhammad and carried three hairs from his beard with him at all times, hence the name. Ceramic tiles from Nabeul in numerous designs the entry. 2) After much Berber resistance, the Aghlabid Dynasty established its rule (800-909), and secured the Maliki school of Islam (more moderate) as the most important in Tunisia and, eventually, North Africa. The Aghlabids conquered Sicily and reaffirmed Kairouan’s position as a great center of Islamic culture. On the way into Kairouan I saw two large polygonal-style basins (water reservoirs) built by the Aghlabids. Supplied by mountain water via an aqueduct, the first served as a receptacle for the more plentiful second. The temperature can reach 47˚C in summer.

There are three factories in Kairouan but unemployment is high (40% among males). Women can find some work through domestic labor and carpet weaving, which can be done at home.

Sousse

Tourists: the Tunisian Economic Mainstay

Sousse is the largest tourist center in Tunisia, according to the guide. Many, many hotels line the corniche, which prospective bathers have to cross to access the beach. Closer to the medina, a Shopping Center (large store) for Tourists is available. Replicas of pirate ships obtrude from the waterfront. Too touristy for me. Bright white villas with turquoise mashroubiyya (turned wood, grilled screens) windows doors can be a pleasant diversion. However, my taxi driver (guide) said the place is swarming with tourists during the summer; and some are there even now. Most are German, French, and British. The medina appears cleaned up for tourists, with fewer of the traditional crafts of exceptional quality left.

Historical Inheritance

Founded in the 9th century before Christ by the Phoenicians, few footprints remain of ancient settlers (Greek, Punic, Roman). I found the thick defensive walls (constructed in 859 AD), Great Mosque, and ribat (combination monastery and fortress) the most fascinating. An Abbasid emir constructed the Great Mosque in 850 AD. The Abbasids succeeded the Umayyads, whose reign came to an end in 750 AD. The ribat dates from the 8th century. Conceived for military purposes, it also provided ideological motivation through religious instruction and devotion. The fortress would protect the local populace, when it came under siege. Simultaneously, it provided shelter to marabouts (holy men, teachers of and experts on the Qur’an, occasionally warriors, known for their baraka (power of blessing) and performance of miracles), who provided spiritual solace and instruction to followers who lived at the nearby mosque and to the population in general. The architecture of these structures is simple, somber, and austere, typical of early mosques.

Commercialized Wisconsin Dells à la Tunisien

Port El Kantaoui is a tourist trap. Developed only in 1978, it is entirely devoted to tourism and their entertainment. I noticed the Hotel Hannibal, Kangaroo disco, bumper car rides for children on the way in. For a Mid-Westerner, it’s a bit like the commercialized part of Wisconsin Dells in Tunisia. Hotel, apartment, and shopping complexes, plus restaurants, built solely to cater to the tourist trade. Gardens of blooming fuchsias, bougainvilleas, jasmines roses surround the marina, with its fishing boats and replicated pirate vessels. All this is tourism without a past, without a bona fide soul. However, Port Kantanoui does have the areas sunsets, without comparison, and an active nightlife for those in the mood for partying. It’s a bit like a cruise ship on land; something available for everyone.

Hammamet

I’m staying in a hotel on one of the beautiful Tunisian beaches of fine, white sand–on the southwestern part of the peninsula of Cape Bon, near the city of Hammamet. The hotel has central heating, which is amazing since so many in Tunisia do not. I took a voiture de louage, i.e., a van that departs for its destination when it’s full. It was very cheap (4 Tunisian dinars or $3.00). On the trip, I visited with a Tunisian woman, who had worked for UNESCO in Paris and has traveled to the United States and other countries. She loves New York, she says. Her husband worked for the Ministry of Finance. They are now both retired. One son is a Tunisian pilot and studied in Denver. The other currently lives in Sydney, Australia. She once had an open-ended visa for the United States; but that has been canceled in recent years. She thought Tunisia was different among North African states because its people have a European mentality. She also think Tunisia has good wines, so maybe I should explore that area a bit more. Since Cape Bon is known as the cradle of Tunisian viticulture, some good wines are no doubt produced here. Cultivation of grapes for winemaking has a history going back to the Phoenicians and continued under the Carthaginians and Romans. Cape Bon is also known for its cultivation of orange and lemon trees, not to mention roses and jasmine. The lemonade upon arrival was delicious–cold, a conspicuous lemon taste but not acidic, and not too much sugar.

Hammamet is a popular tourist destination. However, this time of year is great. The weather is cooler but still nice; and few people are here. Aside from a few jet skis on the Mediterranean, sunshine, the sea, and an air of tranquility prevail. Once a small fishing village, Hammamet today welcomes celebrities and sun-worshipers from around the world. In the 1930s, an Italian, Georges Sebastian, discovered Hammamet and built a neo-Moorish villa, decorated inAndalusian-art deco style. Frank Lloyd Wright said that it was the most beautiful house he knew of. Requisitioned by Rommel in 1943, it’s now a cultural center. The city does have a citadel and medina, which I plan to visit. Supposedly, the merchants are among the most insistent and strident in Tunisia. A guidebook suggests that visitors take it as part of the local folklore. If I don’t end up parting with any or too much money, maybe I can leave with that perspective. Their main goal is probably getting the most out of prosperous European tourists.

The lapping waves, washing in small stones worn smooth, the ripples of the sea at farther view, indefatigable currents closer at hand, the warmth of the sun on my face and skin, a refreshing breeze blowing back my hair, away from the crowds and bustle of the large city, I relaxed at ever deeper layers of sensation and muscle fiber and felt my mind had been swept clear of any problem or anxiety. My balcony with French doors (the room has a Tunisian style, rounded brick ceiling and white walls) opens out onto a garden with the sea in the background. I can hear the calls of birds (so far doves, sparrows, and blackbirds-with yellow beaks and circles around the eyes), absent in the desert and large urban areas. The sound of activity in nature is strangely satisfying. The greenery shuts off the thatched umbrellas, beach lounge chairs, and the people in them. Still, if I wish company, I only have to go to breakfast, walk out onto the pool area or beach, or make an appearance for dinner.

On the way to breakfast, the blue gray clouds of a Tunisian winter day were being warmed by the morning sun, seen in an uncluttered sky with only palm trees (some heavy with unripe bundles of deglet noor dates), hibiscus, and other flora for backdrop. At dusk, the scent of lilacs refreshes the path to dinner. The sunsets (couchers de soleil) are gorgeous; maybe it's the clear air with a distant mountain backdrop. Unlike Muslims, I didn’t need virgins to make this seem like paradise.

Sidi Bel Hassan

Faith

I was able to visit other parts of the Sidi Bel Hassan complex in the Jellaz Cemetery in Tunis. I had visited the mosque before. Today (November 10, 2006) I was able to visit another mosque, which also contains his grave. I could look through a window at his burial site. The mosque (which, purportedly, is built over the cave where he led an ascetic’s life and had a vision of Muhammad) itself I couldn’t enter. It was Friday and an imam, dressed in white jellabah with red hat (chéchia), was sitting in the interior and others were entering to pray, leaving their shoes at the door. Before that, I had entered a long, descending cave, where the French kept Sidi Bel Hassan prisoner, without food or water. Due to his faith and prayers, food eventually appeared. To descend the passageway, I entered a room. On one side hung the flag of Algeria, a coat rack with white clothes to use as veils, and a religious calendar. I had to put on a veil to descend the all white narrow course, which ended in a rounded out cavity at the bottom. Only one person can enter at a time. Only women were present. I walked a short way walked down two small steps, walked a bit more, slid down to another level, which had a mihrab on the left, and stopped there. A woman was sitting on the floor, feet out in front of her, in the bottom cave, reading from the Qur’an or a prayer book. At all levels, candelabras were burning in alcoves on the right. In the bottom cavity, the alcove was in the back. I approached all areas reverently, felt the solemnity, contemplation, and, perhaps, healing or relief (at least psychological) in the air. When I ascended, an older woman, sitting on a chair across from the entrance, gave me a piece of incense (to put on the top of a chicha [water pipe]) and candles to continue my meditation at home. I was also offered some cold water, which had been blessed in the shrine. Up and down the slopes of the cemetery, I could see companions and followers of Sidi Bel Hassan, founder of the Shadhiliyya Sufi order. I was only allowed to enter these areas and take some pictures by giving a substantial donation to the guardian of the area and others working there: the woman providing the incense, a coffee and tea person, and some attendants tending a grave of another of the saint’s followers. At one point, the attendant supposedly blessed me by pressing his hands on the top of my head and then rubbing me on the insides of the elbow, the knees, and on the stomach and back. Saliva was rubbed in some of these areas as well as into my navel. So, I was introduced to some superstitions. As we walked some more, the guardian’s hands were once again placed on my head for blessing. As I mentioned, Wassila Bourguiba is buried in the cemetery, along with members from her family. An American (1938-2002), who converted to Islam and lived in La Marsa, also has a prominent marble tomb on a hilltop, enclosed with a blue wrought iron fence.

I am always interested in what motivates people; and spiritual faith remains a powerful force in the world today. Belief in the spiritual power and intercession of Sidi Bel Hassan is important in North Africa and especially in Tunis, where he founded his tariqa. Both the doorman at the hotel, extremely hospitable and dressed in Ottoman style dress, and the taxi driver are members of the brotherhood. In Sufi orders, often men get together for dhikr (ritualized ceremonies, the liturgy of which may include recitation, singing, instrumental music, dance, costumes, incense, meditation, ecstasy, and trance). I left bewildered by the devotion and rituals associated with the faith, but with respect for those who feel the need to find strength in coping with the problems of every day life and are searching for community and answers to the meaning of life.

The Medina

After that, I went to the medina, centered on the famous Zitouna Mosque. I walked around taking in the suqs and bought some articles. It was Friday; so at the time of the afternoon prayer, men began hastening toward the mosque dressed in their traditional style jebbas, gandouras, and chéchias or turbans. Standing in the alleyways, covered with curved roofs and lined with decorated columns, watching men in traditional clothing following the call to prayer as Muslims have been doing for centuries, I had a sense of continuity, of solidity, and of fascination in the diversity of humankind.

Universal Hommage

Headlines in today's (Thursday, November 9) edition of La Presse has Tunisian organizations rendering universal hommage to the avant-gardist (vanguard, novel, experimental) initiatives of President Ben ali on the 19th anniversary of his assumption of power, called here Le Changement. UTICA (Tunisian Union of Industry, Commerce, and Crafts) underlined that the president's speech on the occasion displayed his commitment to political and democratic reform, political pluralism, the rule of law and its institutions, and to human rights as they are globally understood. These measures respond to the aspirations and hopes of all Tunisians, according to UTICA. UTAP (Tunisian Union for Agriculture and Fishing) praised the leader for his adherence to priorities, which have led to remarkable results in the agriculture sector. UNFT (National Union of Tunisian Women) its commitment to supporting Tunisian women to the "level of their civilizational responsibilities," building on what they have already gained, all while women remain dedicated to their mission at the heart of the family and society. (La Presse [No. 22.973], 9 November 2006, p. 1). Thus, while proclaiming dedication publicly to the values of democracy , in actuality anything less than total support to the goals of the leadership and its goals is, basically, regarded as treason. Of course, the United States had a stint with that after 9/11, with the beginning and conduct of the war in Iraq. Hopefully, politics is getting a bit back to normal.

Ben Ali is accused by human rights groups of creating a highly authoritarian state under the appearance of a democracy, since he replaced the father of modern Tunisia, president-for-life Habib Bourguiba, in 1987. Multi-party politics began in the early 1980s; and the government says it recently started granting legal opposition groups funding to boost democracy. The ruling party, the Constitutional Democratic Rally, dominates the legislature, as by law 80 percent of the seats in the 189-seat parliament are reserved for the ruling party. The remaining 20 percent are contested by six opposition parties. Rights advocates say Tunisia escapes the kind of criticism directed at other authoritarian governments in the area because its Western allies tend to focus on its positive economic performance and success in containing radical Islamist activism. Tunisia recognizes nine opposition parties but has banned five others. Ben Ali said that a state-appointed human rights group would be able to make surprise prison inspections.

Ben Ali came to power in November 1987, when doctors declared Bourguiba senile and unfit to rule.

Saturday, November 11, I'm leaving for Hammamet, leaving behind the traffic jams and congestion of the capital, Tunis. I plan to look into women's organizations there. Later, in Djerba I want to investigate the role of women in two minorities, which have populations on the islands: Ibadis (an Islamic sect) and Jews.

A Bit of Sufism

Politics

Another holiday today. Tuesday, November 7, marks the 19th anniversary of President Zine Al Abidine Ben Ali's assumption of power. Tunisia has freed 29 Islamist prisoners as part of an annual amnesty marking the anniversary of Ben Ali's taking power. All the papers are full of laudatory articles. Tunisia is striking for its lack of public political discourse, while it presents an, an least superficially, Western hospitable face to the world. Tunisia's exact political situation is hard to determine due to the level of silence maintained by the government and the lack of transparency. Tunisians feels very inscure, when talking about politics. this could be explained by the fact that the Tunisian authority imposes numerous restrictions, despite official speeches, on the freedom of speech and on human rights. Control of the internet is one important sign of the pervasive structure of state control. The growth of the internet has been a major issue for Tunisia, with European tourists and ISPs so close by; and the country allows only censored internet access. This censorship bars all materials deemed pornographic, and any chat group references critical of the government. Most recently Ben Ali recalled the Tunisian ambassador to Qatar, since Al Jazeera broadcast interviews with an opponent of the regime, Moncef Marzouki, in which Marzouki called for "civil resistance.” President Ben Ali has been in office since 1987 when he deposed Habib Bourguiba, who had been President since Tunisia's inde-pendence from France in 1956. The constitution has been changed twice to allow him to remain in power: initially from two to three terms, and then from three to five. Tunisia is also one of the few Muslim countries (like Azerbaijan and Turkey), where hijabs are prohibited in government buildings. The government forces women wearing hijab either to quit their jobs or for female students to drop out of school if they insist on wearing it. They force females with veils to sign a document in which they admit having committed a crime punishable by law and, in case of recidivism, would go to jail. The Tunisian state and private media are largely critical of women who insist on keeping their veils despite all threats.

Sufi Mosque

I visited the tomb and mosque (or zawiya) built in honor of Sidi Abul Hassan Ash-Shadhili, founder of a tariqa (mystical order or brotherhood). It is called simply Sidi Belhassen and is located in the Jellez cemetery, where Moncef Bey (Bey of Tunis from 1881 - 1948) and the second wife of Habib Bourgiba, Wassila, are also buried. The complex sits a big hill (the Tunisians call it a mountain) with a terrace overlooking the city. The Tariqa Ash-Shadhiliya is the Sufi order founded by Ash-Shadhili. Followers, or murids (seekers), of the Shadhiliya, are often known as Shadhilis. It is the most popular Sufi order in North Africa. The sheikh was known for his baraka (grace), performing miracles (karamat), and living as an ascetic. Many who are not members of the brotherhood also visit the shrine. The holy place was not open, when I arrived. However, a man sought the guardian and said that I could visit for a donation. Two women, one with a small boy in a beige hooded sweat jacket, gave a donation and drank water from a cup (drawn from a well in the mosque’s courtyard) and entered the carpeted room with the tomb. To enter the room I, likewise, removed my shoes and approached reverently. The woman with the small boy quickly approached the lattice barrier protecting the covered shrine and, with hands across her chest and then reaching up from the elbows, undertook a serious conversation with the supernatural. The other woman put on a satin cloak, prayed while standing, and then prostrated (hands on knees, lowering slowly to kneeling position, then touching forehead, nose and palms to ground). Supposedly, there is a lower mosque as well, built over the cave used by the saint as a place of spiritual retreat and where he had one of his visions of Muhammad. My taxi driver said that the mosque is open on Thursdays. Women go in the morning and men in the afternoon.

Sidi Bou Said

After that, I took the commuter (TGM) train to Sidi Bou Said, a charming blue and white village, with decorated doors, perched on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Tunis, just 20 minutes from the capital. I perused some of the shops and then returned to Tunis to prepare for another day.

View from Tunis

Have been in Tunis only a day. The sky over the city, as seen from my balconey, is dramatic with rain clouds moving in as the weather changes. One fifth of Tunisia's population lives here and more seem to be coming. About 27% of the population is under the age of fifteen. The weather is getting cooler. It was about 65 degrees today with some wind and rain. It's needed, since Tunisia has experienced a worsening drought since 1999. I had to ask for a heater in my hotel room, since none no heat is available in the hotel yet. I thought it was a little cool. There was more paperwork than in Algeria to get a cell phone sim card. No more luck in finding a suitable camera. The medina in Tunis will be among the most interesting aspects of the city. Labrynthine and full of suqs (shops) in their various stalls in the domed and arched thoroughfares, I can easily get lost, take in the people and the wares, and let the time go by. It all centers around the Great Zitouna Mosque, first built in 698 AD, then completely reconstructed from 856 to 863 AD. The Turks made major additions in the 17th century. Recent statistics in Tunisia News state that 99% of 6-year-old Tunisian girls are in school. Women make up almost one-fourth of the work force. thirty five women are presidents of national associations (Tunisia News [No. 679], 21 October 2006, p. 1).

Leaving Oran/Dressing Up for the Pilgrimage

The plane to Tunis was two hours, then three, and, when baggage loading and boarding took place, finally four and a half hours, late. Before leaving for the airport, I had forgotten my sandwich (pressed meat [like ham] and Swiss cheese) in my hotel room. When I returned to retrieve it, close to half an hour later, the maid was already eating it. The bellhop apologized profusely and offered to bring me another. However, I said it really wasn’t that necessary. Such is one of the many pieces of trivia, which weave among other events, larger and even less significant, to make up my life.

A Fashion Parade: Especially for the Young

In the airport, a group was waiting to leave for Djeddah to make the hajj (pilgrimage) to Mecca. Children were dressed in their finest. I was amazed at the variety of outfits. One young girl had a long maroon robe, slit on the sides at the bottom, with silver braid arranged in designs around the neck and hem, with a hat (foldable with straight sides and a slightly concave top when parted, like army privates wore before the beret) to match. Her brother had an ivory traditional tunic, with crocheted beige trim, and pants with a dark red fez. Another young woman looked like a miniature, western bridesmaid. She wore an ankle-length, short-sleeved, white satin dress, with large round ivory earrings, and white fabric lilies fastened into her upswept dark hair. Silver glitter around the edges of her face added a touch of magic. Another lass had a finely textured (gauze-like), white material, embossed with creamy, glittery flowers wrapped around her waist and then draped over her shoulder and across the bodice. Her almond-shaped, brown eyes were compelling; a light olive complexion contrasted with her attire. A very little girl who seldom left her mother’s arms also had a white outfit. The headdress was a white veil (more literally, tent-like covering), with a ruffle around the crown, and an opening for the face. It hung below her shoulders. Henna is popular, applied in patterns to the hands and feet. Yet, another girl had what looked like a customary oriental bride’s outfit –a turquoise, glossy robe with a gold headpiece, rising to a point on top, coming down onto the forehead with braided filaments, dropping enticingly from the edges. A mesh pink robe trimmed with crocheted handiwork of the same color, drawn in at the waist with a belt of strung, gold ovals, each accented with a center pearl, and all over a white tunic and slacks, graced an adolescent girl, who walked quickly by.

Older men wore traditional long gowns with white leather, open-heeled shoes. One woman, unremarkable in dress otherwise, had beautiful open-backed, pointed black felt shoes with gold embroidery. A young boy wore a black robe trimmed in gold braid over a white, Saudi-style thobe. He also had on the typical Saudi headdress (a white cotton piece of material placed over a white skull cap, held in place by a black circular double cord).

A group of ululating women in colorful hijabs and gowns could be heard from time, celebrating the beginning of this great spiritual adventure. I particularly like the fashionable pins, which may be worn on the side of a hijab to keep it in place. Making the hajj is one of the pillars of Islam, required for believers who have the means to do it. It is, therefore, to Algerian Muslims, who for the most part are very observant, an intensely personal, religious experience, crucial to their life in the hereafter. And for some, it may be one of the few times they have traveled outside Algeria.

At check in, I met an Algerian poet on his way to Hammamet; but that's a whole other story. I did get an expresso, a café creme, and a croissant out of the deal, plus the perennial offer to "make couscous for you." I said I had eaten couscous; so I now know that there are five kinds of couscous. What fun!

The picture is of me in from of a building from Ottoman times in Algiers.